20 بهمن 1391

معبد چغازنبیل (زیگورات)- ايران


محوطه تاریخی چغازنبیل در 45 کیلومتری جنوب شرقی شهر باستانی شوش قرار گرفته است. این معبد یکی از اعجاب انگیزترین آثار باستانی جهان متعلق به 3 هزار و 250 سال پیش مشهور به زیگورات چغازنبیل بوده که به ساختمان طبقاتی معبد عیلامیان که توسط ((اونتاش نپیریشا)) معروف به اونتاش گال (پادشاه ایلامی) در سال 1250 قبل از میلاد ساخته شد، گفته می شود. آمده است که ساخت این معبد 20 سال یعنی اندازۀ عمر پادشاهی اونتاش گال طول کشیده است. در برخی از متون میخی این شهر ((آل اونتش)) ذکر شده که امروز دو طبقه و نیم آن هنوز پابرجاست. این معبد موسوم به زیگورات است که به دو تن از خدایان بزرگ عیلامیان یعنی ((اینشوشینک)) و ((نپیریش)) اهداء شده است. این بنا با ابعاد 105 در 105 متر و ارتفاع 52 متر از بزرگترین زیگوراتهای جهان است و بزرگترین اثر معماری برجای مانده از تمدن عیلامی است که تاکنون شناخته شده است. بالاترین ارتفاع معبد 90 متر از سطح دریا بالاتر بوده است. سطح شهر دوراونتاش 30 متر از سطح آب رودخانه دز، (سرمنشاء کارون) بالاتر است که از کنار شهر در حال گذر است.

براي مطالعه مطلب و ديدن عكسها روي بيشتر كليك كنيد

عكاس: محمدرضا كوثري

فرستنده: Kowsari

حفاری گسترده این محوطه که از سال‌های 1951 تا 1962 میلادی به دست ((رومن گیرشمن)) باستان‌شناس و محقق برجسته فرانسوی انجام شد اطلاعات بسیاری درباره ساختار زیگورات و معابد مجاور آن در دسترس قرار داده و آگاهی موجود درباره مسائل تاریخی دوران عیلام میان (عصر طلایی) را بسیار غني‌تر کرده است. این معبد ابتدا تپه‌ای شبیه زنبیل وارانه را در ذهن تداعی می کرد به همین دلیل در گویش محلی به آن چغازنبیل یعنی تپه زنبیلی شکل می گویند (چغابه چم تپه است) اما لفظ زیگورات از لا به لای گزارشهای گیرشمن، حفار ویژه آن به دست آمده که این کلمه برگرفته از کلمه اکدی (امپراطوری عیلام مخلوطی از تمدن دولتهای سومرواکد بود) است.

معبد چغازنبیل در سال 1979 میلادی از طرف سازمان علمی- فرهنگی یونسکو در لیست میراث جهانی قرار گرفت. این محوطه یکی از هشت اثر ثبت شده کشور در لیست میراث جهانی است؛ اهمیت و اصالت این محوطه تاریخی همراه با جاذبه های طبیعی آن از جمله عوامل مؤثر در به ثبت رسیدن این مجموعه بوده است. دو دورۀ مشخص ساختمانی در برپایی زیگورات ردیابی شده است؛ در مرحله اول طبقه نخست به صورت اتاقهای پیرامون یک حیاط مرکزی ساخته شده است و در مرحله بعد حجمهای مربوط به طبقات در میان حیاط مرکزی ساخته شده اند. بر مبنای بقایای طبقات اول و دوم می توان ارتفاع اولیه آنها را به ترتیب 8 و 12 متر برآورد کرد. همچنین گیرشمن برای سطح طبقات سوم و چهارم ارتفاع 32 و 44 متر را مطرح می‌نماید. وی معتقد است با احتساب طبقه فرضی پنجم، ارتفاع نهایی زیگورات به 52 متر می‌رسیده است. در حال حاضر قسمت بزرگی از طبقات اول و دوم این معبد به ارتفاع حدود 25 متر از سطح زمین پابرجاست. هسته مرکزی زیگورات از خشت خام ساخته شده، خشت‌هایی که جاویدان شده‌اند و بر خلاف زیگوراتهای میان دو رود (بین النهرین) که هر طبقه را روی طبقه قبلی می‌ساختند، ساخت هر طبقه از سطح زمین آغاز شده است. از معابدی که در شهر دورانتاش کشف شد چهار معبد از جایگاه ویژه ای نسبت به دیگران برخوردارند. معبد ایشتیکرب و دو معبد کی ری ریش شرق و غرب که روبروی صحنه شمال غربی هستند و همچنین معبد نپیرش که در نزدیکی دروازه شمالی دیوار حصار قرار دارد و با یک کفسازی به صحن متصل می‌شود. همچنین مجموعه معابد شرقی حصار میانی در برگیرنده چهار معبد پینیکر، شالاواد، یشموت و بلت الی و معبد پزتپ است. معبد هیشمیتیک و رو هورتیر، که وقف این دو خدای باستان شده نیز در جبهه شمال شرقی حصار میانی واقع شده است. در این میان می‌توان از برج نور کیبرات حصار میانی و کاخهای شاهی در گوشه شرقی و نزدیک حصار بیرونی و معبد نوسکو در جنوب شرقی این حصار نام برد.

تصفیه خانه آب چغازنبیل

این محل به عنوان اولین و قدیمی‌ترین تصفیه‌خانه آب دنیا شناخته شده است که جهت آب شرب شهر دورانتاش با توجه به قابل شرب نبودن آب دز در این محل عیلامیان با استفاده از یک کانال 45 کیلومتری آب را از رودخانه دز به آنجا منتقل می‌کردند. در واقع این سیستم از دو قسمت تشکیل شده است. قسمت بالای آن متشکل از لوله‌های سفالین 50 سانتی متری است که از در هم قرار گیریشان یک لوله واحد به وجود آمده است که به صورت عمودی در بدنه دیوار کار گذاشته اند و درزهای آنها با قیر طبیعی پر شده؛ قطر دهانه هر کدام 15 سانتی‌متر بوده است. بخش دوم این ناودانها بخش انتهایی بوده که متشکل از دو آجر است که به صورت راسته و موازی هم قرار گرفته و آجر سومی که روی آنها به کار رفته و تمام اجزای ناودان در انتها به مسیری ساخته شده از آجر می رسد که وظیفه دور کردن آب دفع شده را از پای حصار بر عهده داشته‌اند. این شبکه دفع آبهای جاری از یک نظام دقیق و حساب شده مهندسی بهره گرفته که در هیچ ابنیه باستانی به جای مانده در آن زمان نظیر آن وجود ندارد.

غروب چغازنبیل مربوط است به حمله نظامی آشور بانی پال (شاه آشور) به سرزمین عیلام. در این حمله تمدن عیلام و زیگورات برای همیشه خاموش می شود و این تمدن به صورت یک ایالت تابع جزو متصرفات آشور و بعد بابل درمی آید و از سال 200 میلادی به بعد نام عیلام برای همیشه از تاریخ محو می‌شود. شاه آشور در کتیبه خود شرح عملیات نظامی خود به سرزمین عیلام و نابودی معبد زیگورات را به این شکل بیان کرده است: سربازان من باطی مسافتی در مدت زمان یک ماه و 25 روز از کنار بیشه زارهایی گذشتند که هنوز هیچ انسانی در آنجا پا نگذاشته بود. من زیگورات چغازنبیل را که آجرهای آن از نوع مس صیقلی لعاب داده شده بود شکستم. مجسمه های گاو نر خشمناکی که زینت افزای معبدشان بود از جای کندم. تمام نگهبانان معابد را بدون استثنا از بین بردم. تمام خانواده شاهی، همه مردم اعم از متخصصان و مردم عادی و حتی چهارپایان آنان را با خود به اسیری به آشور بردم. گورهای پادشاهان آنان را شکافتم و استخوانهای آنان را جلوی آفتاب قرار دادم و سپس به آشور منتقل نمودم. دستور دادم به صورت نمادین نام عیلام را از روی نقشه محو کنند. آنگاه دستور دادم که درشکه مرا دو شاه عرب و یک شاه عیلامی تا معبد آشور وایشتر حمل کنند.

بنابراین در نبردهای بی‌شماری صدها شهر عیلامی نابود شد. یکی از این نبردها ((تولیز)) نام دارد که متن آن به این شکل است: در آن تصویر نوازندگان در حالی که سرمست از به اسارت گرفتن خدایان عیلامی هستند در کنار بستر رود اولادی (کرخه) در حرکت هستند و بستر رود کرخه پر از خرده ریزهای جنگی است. (گفتنی است این متن در موزه بریتیش لندن موجود است). عیلامیان دارای جایگاه ویژه‌ای در تاریخ کشورمان هستند با توجه به این که از دیرپاترین تمدن‌های دنیا هستند در واقع از مبانی تمدنهای دنیا محسوب می‌شوند. عیلامیان با مسافت زیگورات و با ارائه یک تفکر مذهبی منحصر به فرد در قالب مجموعه دینی تمنوس در میان تمدنهای دنیا بیشتر از بقیه به دین پرداختند و از این حیث زیگورات چغازنبیل مورد توجه کارشناسان و متخصصان دنیا قرار دارد.


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